Three Voyages for the Discovery of a Northwest Passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific, and Narrative of an Attempt to Reach the North Pole, Volume 1

Passage across the Atlantic.--Enter Davis's Strait.--Unsuccessful Attempt to penetrate the Ice to the Western Coast.--Voyage up the Strait.--Passage through the Ice to the Western Coast.--Arrival off Possession Bay, on the Southern Side of the Entrance into Sir James Lancaster's Sound.

Entrance into Sir James Lancaster's Sound of Baffin.--Uninterrupted Passage to the Westward.--Discovery and Examination of Prince Regent's Inlet.--Progress to the Southward stopped by Ice.--Return to the Northward.--Pass Barrow's Strait, and enter the Polar Sea.

Favourable Appearances of an open Westerly Passage.--Land to the Northward, a Series of Islands.--General Appearance of them.--Meet with some Obstruction from low Islands surrounded with Ice.--Remains of Esquimaux Huts, and natural Productions of Byam Martin Island.--Tedious Navigation from Fogs and Ice.--Difficulty of Steering a Proper Course.--Arrival and Landing on Melville Island.--Proceed to the Westward, and reach the Meridian of 110° W. Long., the first Stage in the Scale of Rewards granted by Act of Parliament.

Further Examination of Melville Island.--Continuation of our Progress to the Westward.--Long detention by the Ice.--Party sent on Shore to hunt Deer and Musk-oxen.--Return in three Days, after losing their Way.--Anxiety on their Account.--Proceed to the Westward till finally stopped by the Ice.--In returning to the Eastward, the Griper forced on the Beach by the Ice.--Search for, and Discovery of, a Winter Harbour on Melville Island.--Operations for securing the Ships in their Winter Quarters.

Precautions for securing the Ships and Stores.--For promoting Good Order, Cleanliness, Health, and Good-Humour among the Ships' Companies.--Establishment of a Theatre and of the North Georgia Gazette.--Erection of an Observatory on Shore.--Commence our Winter's Amusements.--State of the Temperature, and various Meteorological Phenomena.--Miscellaneous Occurrences to the Close of the Year 1819.

First Appearance of Scurvy.--The Aurora Borealis and other Meteorological Phenomena.--Visits of the Wolves.--Reappearance of the Sun.--Extreme low Temperature.--Destruction of the House on Shore by Fire.--Severe Frostbites occasioned by this Accident.

More temperate Weather.--House rebuilt.--Quantity of Ice collected on the Hecla's lower Deck.--Meteorological Phenomena.--Conclusion of Theatrical Entertainments.--Increased Sickness on board the Griper.--Clothes first dried in the open Air.--Remarkable Halos and Parhelia.--Snow Blindness.--Cutting the Ice round the Ships, and other Occurrences to the Close of May.

Occurrences at Winter Harbour in the early Part of June.--Gradual Dissolution of the Ice upon the Sea and of the Snow upon the Land.--Decease and Burial of William Scott.--Equipment of the Ships completed.--Temperate Weather during the Month of July.--Breaking up of the Ice near the Ships.--Move to the lower Part of the Harbour.--Separation of the Ice at the Entrance.--Prepare to Sail.--Abstract of Observations made in Winter Harbour.

Leave Winter Harbour.--Flattering Appearance of the Sea to the Westward.--Stopped by the Ice near Cape Hay.--Farther Progress to the Longitude of 113° 48' 22.5", being the Westernmost Meridian hitherto reached in the Polar Sea, to the North of America.--Banks's Land discovered.--Increased Extent and Dimensions of the Ice.--Return to the Eastward, to endeavour to penetrate the Ice to the Southward.--Re-enter Barrow's Strait, and Survey its South Coast.--Pass through Sir James Lancaster's Sound on our Return to England.

Progress down the Western Coast of Baffin's Bay.--Meet with the Whalers.--Account of some Esquimaux in the Inlet called the River Clyde.--Continue the Survey of the Coast till stopped by Ice in the Latitude of 68¼°.--Obliged to run to the Eastward.--Fruitless Attempts to regain the Land, and final Departure from the Ice.--Remarks upon the probable Existence and Practicability of a Northwest Passage, and upon the Whale Fishery.--Boisterous Weather in Crossing the Atlantic.--Loss of the Hecla's Bowsprit and Foremast.--Arrival in England.

SECOND VOYAGE.

PRELIMINARY CHAPTER.

Passage across the Atlantic.--Removal of Stores from the Nautilus Transport, at the Margin of the Ice.--Departure of the Nautilus for England.--Enter the Ice in Hudson's Strait.--Perilous Situation of the Hecla, and Loss of her Anchor.--Meet with the Hudson's Bay Ships.--Passage up the Strait, and Communication with the Natives inhabiting the Northern Shores.--Pass the Trinity Islands of Fox.--Arrival off Southampton Island, where the Researches of the Expedition commence.

Review of the Geographical Information obtained by the Researches of former Navigators on the Coast of the American Continent, in the Neighbourhood of Wager River.--Discover and enter the Duke of York's Bay, supposing it to be a Passage into the Sea called the Welcome.--Leave the Duke of York's Bay, and proceed to the Northwestward.--Passage of the Frozen Strait and Arrival in Repulse Bay.--Continuity of Land there.--Observations on Shore.--Remarks concerning the Geography, Tides, and Natural History of this Part of the Continental Coast.

Return to the Eastward through the Frozen Strait.--Discovery of Hurd Channel.--Examined in a Boat.--Loss of the Fury's Anchor.--Providential Escape of the Fury from Shipwreck.--Anchor in Duckett Cove.--Farther Examination of the Coast by Boats and Walking-parties.--Ships proceed through Hurd Channel.--Are drifted by the Ice back to Southampton Island.--Unobstructed Run to the Entrance of a large Inlet leading to the Northwestward.--Ships made fast by Hawsers to the Rocks.--Farther Examination of the Inlet commenced in the Boats.

Hoppner's Inlet entered and surveyed by the Boats.--Continuity of Land there determined.--Proceed to examine another Opening leading to the Westward.--Favourable Appearance of a continued Passage in that direction.--Meet with some Esquimaux.--Arrival in Ross Bay, being the Termination of Lyon Inlet.--Discovery and Examination of various Creeks.--Return to the Ships, after finding the Land entirely continuous.--Some Account of the Natural History of this Part of the Coast.

Farther Examination in the Boats for the Purpose of Connecting the Shores of Lyon Inlet with that of Gore Bay.--Continuity of the Land determined.--Fresh Detention by the Ice.--Boats carried over Land.--Return to the Ships.--Progress out of the Inlet prevented by the Ice.--The Fury grounds upon a Rock.--Anchor in Safety Cove.--Heavy Easterly Gales.--Proceed out of the Inlet.--Arrival in a Bay on the south Side of Winter Island.--Ships secured in Winter-quarters.

Precautions for the Security of the Ships and their Stores--And for the Health and Comfort of the Crews.--Establishment of Theatrical Entertainments and Schools.--Erection of an Observatory and House on Shore.--State of Health at this Period.--Partial Disruption of the Ice in the Bay.--Anchors and Cables taken to the Shore.--Gradual Increase of Cold, Appearance of the Aurora Borealis on several Occasions, and various other Meteorological Phenomena to the Close of the Year 1821.

Many Foxes caught.--Continued Open Water in the Offing.--Partial Disruption of the Ice in the Bay.--Meteorological Phenomena, and Temperature of Animals.--Arrival of a Tribe of Esquimaux.--First Meeting and subsequent Intercourse with them.--Esquimaux in Want of Provisions.--Supplied with Bread-dust.--Some Account of a Sealing Excursion with them.--Fresh Disruption of the Ice in the Bay.--Closing of the Winter Theatre.--Meteorological Phenomena till the End of February, 1822.

A Journey performed across Winter Island.--Sufferings of the Party by Frost.--Departure of Some of the Esquimaux, and a separate Village established on the Ice.--Various Meteorological Phenomena.--Okotook and his Wife brought on board.--Anecdotes relating to them.--Ships released from the Ice by sawing.

Increased Extent of open Water in the Offing.--A Travelling Party despatched to the Northward.--Unsuccessful Attempt to raise Vegetables on Shore.--Decease of James Pringle.--A Party of Esquimaux build Huts near the Ships.--Return of the Travellers, and Account of their Journey.--First Appearance of the Plants.--Birds become numerous.--Commence cutting a Canal through the Ice for liberating the Ships.--Illness and Decease of John Reid and William Souter.--Breaking up of the Ice in the Bay.--Account of Winter Island.--Abstract of Observations made there.

TECHNICAL TERMS PECULIAR TO THE NAVIGATION AMONG ICE

BAY-ICE.--Ice newly formed upon the surface of the sea. The expression is, however, applied also to ice a foot or two in thickness.

BESET.--The situation of a ship when closely surrounded by ice.

BIGHT.--An indentation in a floe of ice, like a bay, by which name it is sometimes called.

BLINK.--A peculiar brightness in the atmosphere, often assuming an arch-like form, which is generally perceptible over ice or land covered with snow. The blink of land, as well as that over large quantities of ice, is usually of a yellowish cast.

BORE.--The operation of "boring" through loose ice consists in entering it under a press of sail, and forcing the ship through by separating the masses.

CALF.--A mass of ice lying under a floe near its margin, and, when disengaged from that position, rising with violence to the surface of the water. See TONGUE.