Impressions of America During the Years 1833, 1834 and 1835. Volume 2 (of 2)

One or two of the highest and most conspicuous points, whether viewed from the land or the sea, have been very properly selected for buildings, whose uses, however humble, admitted of classic form. Beneath the roof of a temple to Minerva, built upon the extreme eastern point of the lofty headland, may be found the billiard-table of the hotel; lower down, the little edifice containing a range of baths is entered by a Doric portico. The proportions of these buildings are in good taste; the chaste cold moon clothes them in grace and beauty; and for the material, what matters it, when, by her light, painted pine may be fancied Parian marble! The cliff itself is a very Leucadia, and as well fitted for a leap as love-sick heart could seek: but there are no Sapphos now-a-days; the head of Nahant is likely to remain un-be-rhymed.

A little way to the northward lies a small steep island, between which and the main land the "sarpint" par excellence has been seen more than once rushing along at the rate of a steamboat, with a horned face uplifted some fifty feet above the waves, and a beard blowing about his ears like the tail of a comet.

This account I had from more than one credulous witness: certain it is, if Sarpint be fond of fish, he is no bad judge in selecting this as a residence; for about this same island there are abundance and variety, both to be met with at all hours, as I can testify, having sat in a punt, bearing a wary eye for hours at a stretch, and catching all sorts of things except a sight of the "sarpint."

The nights here are indeed delicious, calm and cool, with air as soft as velvet; during the day, for about two hours after meridian, owing to the absence of all shade without, one is compelled, although the sea-breeze does its best, to keep the house, or else get outside the bay of Boston, away from the land: this I was afforded frequent opportunities of doing, in a very pretty schooner-yacht called the Sylph, which Mr. F----s had down here. She was about eighty tons burthen, capitally appointed, and with rare qualities as a sea-boat; in her I had the happiness to pass many days, when the poor people on shore were pitiably grilled, cruising for codfish, and dishing them up into a sort of soup called chowder; this formed, in fact, the one great object of my present life, and I availed myself of every occasion to pursue it.

One of my pleasantest cruises was made with Captain H----d, in an armed schooner called the Hamilton, attached to the United States' revenue service. We ran down the coast as far as Portsmouth, and on our return passed a night within the snugly enclosed harbour of Marblehead; into which a couple of our cruisers chased an American frigate during the last war, and threatened to fetch her out again, but thought better of it, after putting the natives to a great deal of inconvenience through their anxiety to provide a suitable welcome for the strangers.

Here we landed, and looked about the place: the air was somewhat fishy, but, judging by the ruddy complexions of the people, must be exceedingly salubrious. It is not unlike some of the French fishing-towns on the coast of Normandy, and has an old look that pleased me much. The place is said to have been originally settled by a colony of fishers from Guernsey, whose descendants are found still to retain many of the customs of the islands, and some words of the patois in use there.

The population is famous for industry, and for the summary mode with which they dispense justice amongst themselves on points of local polity affecting the general weal. One instance was fresh enough in memory to be talked of still. A townsman, returning from the Banks with a cargo, passed a vessel in a sinking state, turning a blind eye to their repeated anxious signals. Contrary to all expectation, the crippled bark, after being given up as lost, reached the harbour, and the conduct of the hard-hearted skipper was made public. He was seized instanter, triced up, served out with a dozen or two well told, covered with tar, clothed in feathers, and in this plight was carted about the boundaries of the township, having a label hung about his neck that described his crime and sentence in good set rhymes, which ran as follows:

"This here's old John Hort, That for his hard heart Is tar-ed and feather-ed, And carry-ed in this cart."

This occurs to me as being the best practicable illustration of "poetical justice" I ever heard of, and an example not likely to be lost upon a maritime people.

It was about dusk when we landed; and I was at first greatly surprised by the numbers of pretty and neatly-dressed women we encountered strolling about, or chatting together in groups, wholly unattended by the other sex. I was quickly reminded, however, that at this season of the year the husbands, lovers, and sons of the community are mostly absent in their vessels fishing on the banks of Newfoundland, and not returnable under ten or twelve weeks.

I cannot help observing that it does infinite credit to the moderation of these citoyennes that they forbear from taking the sovereign rule into their own hands at these times, since assuredly they possess the power of numbers to enforce submission, were the resident housekeepers hardy enough to offer resistance.

Early on the morning of next day the Hamilton was once more under weigh; we beat along the coast for some distance, then got before the wind, and, after peeping into the harbours of Salem and Gloucester, bore up for Nahant: when yet distant some five miles from our destined port, the wind fell at once start-calm, without much promise of a breeze till evening; a light gig, however, and four stout hands, soon set us on shore within the shadow of the temple of Minerva, and concluded a very pleasant cruise.

A steam-boat daily plies between this place and Boston: many persons come down here for an hour or two, and return on the same evening; a game of nine-pins and a dinner of fine fish, with advantages of fresh air and a temperature comparatively cool, being the inducements.

The resident families are not numerous, but appear to mix sociably; and, what with a drive or ride upon the fine beach between this and Lynn, a sail in the harbour, or a ramble amongst the rude crags by which the place is environed, find means diversified enough of killing the enemy. For my part, I am pleased with the place; and were it not that my incarnate foes have chosen, contrary to established custom, to make an inroad here, my satisfaction would be complete. But, as it is, they have at length once more prevailed over my patience: with my eyes nearly swollen up and my hands miserably blistered, I find further resistance too painful, therefore have decided upon flight after a fortnight's residence.

One of the preparations for my comfort, at the dinner-table of Mr. P----s, with whose amiable family I have latterly dined, was a cup of rose-water and eau de Cologne, with patches of the rice paper of China, wherewith to allay the intolerable itching that attends the puncture of these winged leeches, whose voracity is incredible. I have at times caught a villain in the act, and watched with patience until from one of the veins of the hand he had drunk blood enough to blow out his little carcase to the shape of a tennis-ball, when he would poise himself upon his long legs, and, spreading his wings, make an effort to rise, but in vain; bloated and unwieldy, his wings refused to sustain him; his usual activity was gone, and there he stood disgustingly helpless, incapacitated by sheer gluttony.

In the first week of August I bade adieu to the rocks of Nahant, and for the last time drove over the beach to Lynn. Not having received any letters during my residence on the little peninsula--which, it appears, is out of the circuit of the post-office department--I called at the establishment of Lynn to make inquiry whether or no any letters had been forwarded here: the young man in attendance "guessed" that there had been one or two, maybe; but if there was, the stage-driver had had them. Now there being a feud between the said driver and the hotel I lodged in, my ever getting my letters appears a doubtful matter: however, "I guess" I'll try.

THE BALLOON.

TAUNTON.--COTTON MANUFACTURES.--POCASSETT.--RHODE ISLAND.

On arriving at Boston, I found the whole city in movement to assist, as the French say, in the ascent of a balloon, constructed by a Mr. Durant, already well known as an experienced and intrepid aeronaut.

Purchasing a ticket for the Amphitheatre, a lofty temporary enclosure with rows of seats running round it, I fell into the crowd, and made my way across the common at the extremity of which the building in question was situated.

Although the day was hot and bright, there was a very strong southerly wind blowing; and rolling away to the north-east, heavy masses of cloud passed over the sun like snow-drifts, promising a rapid flight for the balloon.

This common, flanked as it is by the finest residences of the city, the Bostonians often compare with our Hyde Park. Its surface is broken and irregular, and on this day the whole area was alive with expectant gazers; whilst the several lines of streets leading into it were thronged with hurrying reinforcements.

Selecting a point of vantage, I stood for some time examining the materials out of which this vast congregation was made up, and I have never seen a population whose general appearance would endure so close a scrutiny as well.

I computed that the women outnumbered their less attractive companions by at least a third: these were all in holiday trim, of course; invariably well dressed, but commonly having a pretension to taste and style I have never elsewhere observed so universally prevalent amongst the same class. The men, both in air and dress, were inferior to their female friends; so much so that it was difficult to imagine them belonging to the same order: and this remark, I think, will be found to apply generally throughout the Union.

It is not difficult to account for this discrepancy: a love of adornment is natural to women; the general prosperity which prevails here enables all classes to indulge a taste for dress, whilst the leisure enjoyed by females gives them facilities for acquiring those little aids by which gay attire is disposed and set off to the best advantage.

After a time I slowly made my way to the Amphitheatre, presented my ticket and was admitted within the enclosure, where the arrangements for the flight were in busy progress.

The inflation was nearly complete, and the huge machine rolled about from side to side uneasily abiding the restraint which alone prevented its immediate ascent. It was covered by the netting commonly used; and about this a number of volunteer assistants clung, restraining the balloon whilst the aeronaut made all his little arrangements.

The car was a small wicker basket; its cargo consisted of a few bags of sand for ballast, a barometer, and a couple of small kedges with lines to match. I had no idea a balloon could be brought up, all standing, by so small a cable.