Practical Skunk Raising A Book of Information Concerning the Raising of Skunks for Profit

An acre of ground is sufficient to begin with, but one must have it situated so one could increase to perhaps ten acres. It should be high, dry and sandy, with some grass in the plot, and not too remote from a railway station.

3.—The Fence.

An inexpensive fence to begin with may be made by setting posts in the ground close together, but strongly. I recommend a fence made of wire netting or steel set or inbedded in the ground from one to two feet. First, dig a trench about one foot wide and two feet deep, and put heavy rock in the bottom and thus, with the rock below the wire there will be no way that the skunks can escape by digging.

The posts should be set ten feet apart. If set farther the wire will have a tendency to sag. The wire should be of one and a half inch mesh for the main fence, and one inch mesh for the breeding yards, as young skunks sometimes escape through a one and a half inch mesh. No. 16, or 18, gauge wire from four to eight feet in height should be used. Any smaller gauge than the above mentioned is not durable enough.

A wire or board inhang of twelve inches, should be placed at the top rejecting in so the animals can’t climb out. This is attached by slats nailed along the tops of the posts and the wire nailed to them. Steel sheeting needs no inhang, because it is so that the skunks cannot get a foothold.

If the skunks dig at night to get out fill up the holes as soon as possible and thus discourage the workers.

The big pen or large enclosure, serves as a range for the barren females, males, and young skunks during autumn.

4.—Pens.

Many breeders consider pens better and cheaper than dens. These are little runs about ten feet square, separated only by a three foot netting which has an inhang or overhang as it is some times called, of a foot on each side, so the skunks cannot climb in or out. If boards are used for pens inside the big fence no overhang is needed. All pens should be completely floored with mesh wire three or four inches under surface.

5.—Dens.

Every cage or pen needs a movable den that is dry, sanitary, portable, easy for observation, and warm. This last feature is important, for skunks are sensitive to cold which causes pneumonia. The dens should be well supplied with straw and rags, (avoid hay) because the seeds are injurious to the nostrils.

6.—Cage Litter.

After trying smooth floored dens, and floors strewn with straw, chips, ashes and sawdust; I feel safe in recommending sawdust, as its great absorbent power helps to keep clean dens. It should cover the floor to a depth of two inches.

7.—Food Troughs.

Do not use wooden troughs; they are unsanitary. Pie dishes either tin or ware, will do if the sides do not flare. If they do the skunk usually spills the milk or any liquid in the dish, by standing on the sides with its paws.

8.—Food House.

The food and tool-house should be in the pen for convenience. There should be mice and rat-proof vessels to keep the oatmeal and dry biscuit, cheese, and meat in. It should be equipped with a large boiler for boiling oatmeal and meat in. The meat may also be smoked as this will preserve it, and is greatly preferred by the animals. The meat may be hung out of reach of the rats in sacks.

9.—Feeding.

Skunks like most animals are omnivorous. A continuous unbroken diet of meat would eventually wipe out the stock; as would a diet solely vegetable. Moderate varied feeding is essential. Adult skunks are fed once a day, they themselves prefer it after dark. Staple articles of food are beef, rabbit, cow liver, chicken giblets, oatmeal, and other porridge, cooked potatoes and milk; anything a dog will eat with fruit and insects added. Be sure the meat is clear of infection.

Another staple article of food is a bread made of bran and shorts. Mix with three quarts of sour milk, enough flour to make a stiff dough. Roll dough out until it is an inch thick and bake for an hour like bread in a hot oven.

This is much relished by all fur-bearing animals, and is still more acceptable if flavored with a few spoonfuls of black molasses.

Milk must be given sparingly unless it agrees with the stock. Once a week is enough, more than that is liable to induce scouring and other disorders. Half a dog biscuit, and a few scraps of meat are enough for a skunk’s daily allowance. Of course some should have more than others according to their needs.

A brood-mother growing or suckling her young should have as much as she can eat twice a day, morning and evening.

When winter comes, skunks retire to their dens and eat nothing for weeks. In March the feeding is resumed and in April the brood mothers are extra fed with a preponderance of meat, much of it raw. It costs from twenty-five cents to a dollar to feed a skunk from June first to December first. Meat and fresh water are necessary at all times for brood-mothers, for if this is neglected they will devour the young as soon as born.

10.—Water Troughs.

Skunks drink much, and often. They must have plenty of fresh water at all times; especially when the young are expected. The vessel that the water at all times is kept in should be washed every day. In winter the skunks lap up snow instead of water.

11.—Examining Box.

No cautious man would undertake to examine a wild skunk as he would a dog or rabbit. Yet it is important to know sex and condition of each new skunk as it arrives. This may be easily and quickly done by means of an examining box. This is a small box 10″ by 8″ by 6″ covered with a chicken wire of about one inch mesh on the top. There should be a six inch entrance at one end of the box.

On the solid wood bottom is a handle which is of course the top, when the box is turned wire side down.

Chase the skunk in the entrance slowly and then lift the box up by the handle and look under without fear. As soon as the operation is over the skunk will seek his proper den.

12.—Diseases.

The keeper should watch the animal’s dung, if too fluid or too soft, too copious or too little, there is something wrong. Their appetite, and the dung are the great tests. If these are right there is little chance of anything being wrong.

Greed—Some cases often abound among skunks such as over-eating; by getting all they can from the other skunks, after eating their own food. Such freaks should be isolated and marketed as soon as possible.

Cannibalism—Sometimes when enclosures are small the mothers devour the young as soon as born. This is sometimes the result of quarreling. Always build the enclosures large enough so the skunks have plenty of room.

Murder—Murder must be considered a disease. Some individuals are incapable of it while others are very prone to it. The last mentioned soon make themselves known. They should be marketed as soon as possible.

Distemper—This may be detected by the animal’s eyes and nose running. The animal should be sent at once to the hospital, and treated by washing the nose and eyes with a solution of boric acid and water.

Mange—Mange is considered a serious disease, and is caused by fleas which induce the animal to scratch. The fur gets thin and the body is covered with scabs. This may be cured by applying a good flea powder and a dip.

Worms—Worms may be eliminated by feeding the skunks in a dish of clear, sharp, sand.

Other Foes—While the armed skunk travels about without fear of man or beast, it must be remembered that the disarmed young skunks may be killed by dogs, or taken by horned owls or any other large bird.

13.—Rats.