Letters of an Architect, From France, Italy, and Greece. Volume 2 [of 2]

Scenery about Rome, 27.—Casino of Raphael, 27.—Villa Borghese, 28.—Villa Poniatowski, 28.—Villa Giulia, 28.—Acqua acetosa, 29.—Monument to St. Andrew, 29.—Ponte Molle, 29.—Torre di Quinto, 29.—Tomb of Ovid, 30.—Villa Madama, 30.—Monte Mario, 30.—Valle d’Inferno, 30.—Porta Angelica, 31.—Villa Albani, 31.—Ponte Salario, 31.—Ponte Lamentano, 32.—Mons Sacer, 32.—Aqueducts, 32.—Torre Pignattara, 35.—Degradation of Roman architecture, 36.—Ruins composed of reticulated work, 36.—Torre degli Schiavi, 37.

Baths of Caracalla, 39.—Great Halls, 39.—Tomb of the Scipios, 40.—Arch of Drusus, 41.—Sepulchre of Mars, 41.—Church of Domine quo vadis, 42.—Church of St. Sebastian, 42.—Catacombs, 42.—Spoliarium, 43.—Very ancient sepulchre, 43.—Circus of Caracalla, 43.—Temple of Honour and Virtue, 44.—Temple of the Tempest, 44.—Temple of Bacchus at the Caffarelli, 45.—Grotto of Egeria, 45.—Temple of Rediculus, 46.—Sepulchre of Cecilia Metella, 47.—Appian Way, 48.—Roma Vecchia, 48.—Roman roads, 48.—Roman Temples, 49.—Tre Fontane, 49.—Villa Pamfili, 49.—Workshops (Canova), 50.—Thorwaldson, 50.—Fragments of Veii, 51.

Campagna, 52.—Lago de’ Tartari, 52.—Lago di Solfatara, 53.—Ponte Lucano, 54.—Plautian monument, 54.—Sepulchres of the Sereni, 54.—Hadrian’s villa, 54.—Stage to Tivoli, 57.—Figures of Saints and Gods, 57.—Temple of Vesta, 57.—Opus incertum, 57.—Church of St. George, 59.—Waterfall, 59.—Villas, 60.—Villa of Horace, 61.—Villa of Q. Varus, 61.—Cyclopean Walls, 62.—Villa of V. Bassus, 64.—Vetriano, 64.—Quarries of travertine, 64.—Aqueducts, 65.—Cascatelli, 66.—Acqua Aurea, 66.—Temple of the World, 67.—Temple of Tosse, 67.—Villa of Mæcenas, 67.—Temple of Hercules, 67.—Portico of Hercules, 67.—Villa d’Este, 67.

Aqueducts, 68.—Road to Vico Varo, 70.—Villa of Syphax, 70.—Vico Varo, 70.—Rocca Giovane, 70.—Licenza, 71.—Fons Bandusiæ, 71.—Villa of Horace, 72.—Convent of San Cosimato, 72.—Valley of the Anio, 72.—Subiaco, 73.—Baths of Nero, 73.—Convent of Santa Scolastica, 74.—Convent of St. Benedict, 74.—Road to Palestrina, 75.—Genezzano, 75.—Palestrina, 76.—Temple of Fortune, 76.—Cyclopean Walls, 77.—Temple of the Sun, 77.—Villa of Constantine, 78.—Roman pavement, 78.

Procession to obtain rain, 79.—St. Peter’s toe, 79.—Frascati, 79.—Grotto Ferrata, 80.—Tusculum, 80.—Mondragone, 81.—Sepulchre of L. V. Corvinus, 81.—Rocca del Papa, 81.—Monte Cavo, 82.—Via triumphalis, 82.—Villa of Domitian, 83.—Villa of Pompey, 83.—Lago di Albano, 83.—Emissario, 84.—Baths of Diana, 84.—Thermæ at Albano, 85.—Tomb of the Curiatii, 85.—Remains of the Appian way, 85.—Aricia, 85.—Lake of Nemi, 85.—Nemi, 86.—Velletri, 86.—Cross-roads, 87.—Cora, 87.—Temple of Hercules, 87.—Temple of Castor and Pollux, 88.—Vases found at Marino, 88.—Ostia, 90.—Mal aria, 90.—Port of Trajan, 91.—Sea-shore, 92.—Veii, 92.—Gabii, 93.—Sylva sacra, 94.—Nettuno, 94.—Antium, 94.—Ardea, 94.

Companions in journey, 95.—Church at Monte Rosi, 96.—Nepi, 96.—Cività castellana, 96.—Poetical labourer, 97.—Otricoli, 97.—Narni, 97.—Terni, 97.—Cascade, 98.—Somma, 102.—Spoleto, 102.—Temple of Clitumnus, 103.—Foligno, 104.—Perugia, 104.—Thrasymene, 105.—Cortona, 106.—Grotto of Pythagoras, 106.—Arezzo, 106.—Church of the Pieve, 106.—Chapel in cathedral, 107.—Effects of slender supports, 108.—Murder, 108.

Boboli gardens, 110.—Cascine, 110.—Comparison of Florence and Rome, 110.—Walk to Bologna, 111.—Volcano, 111.—Boiling spring, 112.—Cathedral at Modena, 113.—Italian Gothic, 113.—Reggio, 113.—Santa Maria di Consolazione, 113.—Parma, 114.—Cathedral, 114.—Baptistery, 114.—Paintings of Coreggio, 114.—Church of the Steccata, 114.—Academy, 115.—Palace, 115.—Language, 115.—Po, 116.—Mantua, 116.—Cathedral, 116.—Palazzo del Tè, 117.—Church of St. Sebastian, 117.—Sant Andrea, 117.—Fish-market, 118.—Ponte di Lago Scuro, 118.—Ferrara, 119.—Cathedral, 120.—Echoes, 120.—Journey to Imola, 121.—Faenza, 121.—Raphael, 121.—Agriculture, &c. 122.

Ravenna, 124.—Church of San Vittore, 124.—Spirito Santo, 125.—Church of Santa Agata Maggiore, 125.—Monograms, 126.—San Giovanni della Sagra, 126.—San Francesco, 127.—S. Apollinare nuova, 127.—S. Apollinare at Classe, 127.—Baptistery, 128.—Santa Maria in Cosmedim, 129.—S. Vitale, 129.—Sepulchre of Galla Placidia, 130.—Sepulchre of Theodoric, 131.—Palace of Theodoric, 132.—Library and museum, 133.—Tomb of Dante, 133.—Cathedral, 133.—Campanile, 133.—Pine wood, 133.—Rimini, 134.—Bridge of Augustus, 134.—Arch of Augustus, 134.—Cathedral, 135.—Want of patriotic feeling among the Italians, 136.—Senegaglia, 137.—Ancona, 137.—Arch of Trajan, 137.—Cathedral, 138.—Santa Maria della Piazza Collegiata, 138.—Loreto, 139.—Piazza, 139.—Church, 139.—Holy house, 139.—Apothecary’s shop, 140.—Sermon, 140.—Miracles, 142.—Journey to Macerata, 142.—Theatre, 143.—Apennines, 143.—Return to Rome, 144.—Roman amusements, 146.

Scheme of English academy, 147.—English academy, 148.—Roman academy, 149.—Milizia, 149.—Instruction to a young architect, 155.

Use of bricks, 163.—Republican edifices, 163.—Progress of ornament, 165.—Character of the Italians, 168.—Division of employment at Rome, 169.—Rome, the capital of the world, 169.—Purgatory, 172.—Present state of Italy, 172.

Feeling for art in Italy, 174.—Journey to Naples, 174.—Postillion murdered, 175.—Terracina, 176.—Fondi, 177.—Itri, 177.—Sepulchre of Cicero at Mola, 177.—Capua, 177.—Inn at Naples, 178.—Palaces, 178.—Royal palace, 178.—Theatre of San Carlo, 178.—Castello nuovo, 178.—Palace of the Studii, 179.—Cathedral, 179.—Church of Santa Restituta, 181.—Chapel of San Gennaro, 181.—Gerolomini, 182.—Church of St. Paul, 182.—Sangro chapel, 182.—Church of San Domenico maggiore, 183.—Santa Chiara, 183.—Trinità maggiore, 184.—Annunziata, 184.—San Pietro ad aram, 184.—Santa Maria del Carmine, 184.—Blood of St. Januarius, 185.—Neapolitan life, 186.—Coins, 187.—Comparison of Rome and Naples, 189.—Toledo, 190.—Views from Naples, 190.—Chiaja, 190.—Capo di Monte, 191.—Albergo Reale de’ poveri, 191.

Grotto of Pausilippo, 192.—Pozzuoli, 193.—Temple of Jupiter Serapis, 193.—Temple of Neptune, 196.—Amphitheatre, 197.—Solfatara, 197.—Lake of Agnano, 198.—Grotto del Cane, 198.—Villa of Cicero, 199.—Monte nuovo, 199.—Arco Felice, 199.—Cuma, 199.—Amphitheatre, 199.—Lake of Acheron, 199.—Stufe of Tritola, 200.—Baths of Nero, 200.—Lucrine Lake, 200.—Lake of Avernus, 200.—Bridge of Caligula, 201.—Bases of columns in the sea, 201.—Campanian way, 201.—La Mergellina, 202.—Santa Maria del parto, 202.—Hill of Pausilippo, 202.—Tomb of Virgil, 202.—Excursion to Baiæ, 203.—School of Virgil, 203.—Capo Miseno, 204.—Dragonara, 204.—Elysian fields, 204.—Piscina mirabile, 204.—Cento camarelle, 204.—Tomb of Agrippina, 204.—Temple of Hercules, 204.—Temple of Venus genitrix, 205.—Temple of Mercury, 205.—Temple of Diana, 205.—Ruins at Baiæ, 205.—Camaldoli, 206.—Excursion to Pompei, 207.—Herculaneum, 208.—Torre del Greco, 208.—Torre dell’ Annunziata, 208.—Pompei, 208.—Ponte della Maddelena, 209.—Old Capua, 209.—Caserta, 210.

Journey to Bari, 211.—Robbers taken into service, 212.—Foggia, 214.—Bari, 214.—Cathedral, 215.—Church of San Nicola, 215.—Norman church at Bari, 215.—Residence at Bari, 216.—Journey to Otranto, 216.—Lecce, 218.—Style of architecture, 218.—Otranto, 219.—Olive trees, 219.—Voyage to Corfu, 220.—Modern Greek buildings, 220.—Greek dress, 220.—Soil of Corfu, 221.—Journey to Santa Maura, 222.—Agioneesi, 222.—Santa Maura, 224.—Leucas, 224.—Voyage to Patras, 225.—Voyage to Vostizza, 226.—Journey to Corinth, 227.—Antiquities at Corinth, 228.—Voyage to Athens, 228.

Greek apartments, and mode of life, 229.—Topography, 230.—Ilissus, 231.—Cephisus, 231.—Nature of rock, 232.—Effect of first-rate productions, 232.—Review of objects in journey, 233.—Arrival at Athens, 234.—Monument of Lysicrates, 234.—Tower of the winds, 234.—Portico of the market, 234.—Stoa, 234.—Gymnasium, 234.—Temple of Theseus, 234.—Situations of buildings, 235.—Greek temples, 235.—Tiles, 237.—External painting, 237.—Comparison of Greek and Roman ornaments, 239.

Propylæa, 241.—Temple of Victory without wings, 241.—Very ancient constructions, 246.—Mode of finishing, 246.—Parthenon, 246.—Situation of religious buildings, 247.—Effects of explosion, 248.—Nature of quarries of Pentelic marble, 251.—Desire of obtaining fragments, 253.—Temple of Erectheus, 254.—Temple of Minerva Polias, 257.—Temple of Pandrosus, 257.

Comparison of Rome and Athens, 259.—Walls of the Acropolis, 261.—Grotto of Pan, 261.—Large entablature, 261.—More very ancient walls, 262.—Choragic monuments, 262.—Theatre of Bacchus, 262.—Odeum, 262.—Temple of Jupiter Olympus, 262.—Progress of foliage, 263.—Arch of Hadrian, 265.—Areopagus, 266.—Pnyx, 266.—Monument of Philopappus, 266.—Stadium of Herodes Atticus, 267.—Bridge over the Ilissus, 267.—Tombs, 267.—Academy, 268.—Colonia, 268.—Lyceum, 268.—Turkish architecture, 268.—Greek churches, 269.

Piræus, 271.—Tomb of Themistocles, 271.—Munychia, 271.—Phalerus, 272.—Excursion to Daphne, 272.—Written rock, 273.—Salt streams, 273.—Excursion to Hymettus, 274.—Climate of Athens, 275.—Modern Greek, 275.—Mode of life, 278.—Dancing dervises, 279.—Greek carnival, 280.—Greek dress, 281.—Schools in Greece, 285.

Temple of Jupiter Panhellenius in Egina, 287.—Comparison of Greek and English scenery, 288.—Temple of Minerva at Sunium, 289.—Remains at Thoricus, 289.—Plain of Marathon, 290.—Ruins at Rhamnus, 291.—Return to Athens, 292.—Plague, 292.

Temple near the port of Egina, 295.—Pidhavro, or Epidaurus, 296.—Hiero, 296.—Theatre, 297.—Nafplia, 298.—Tyrins, 298.—Argos, 298.—Ruins of Mycene, 299.—Ruins of Nemæa, 301.—Arrival at Corinth, 301.—Basilica, the ancient Sicyon, 302.—Voyage to Patras, 303.—Singular Medusa, 303.—Greek mountains, 303.—Earthquake, 304.—Roman aqueduct at Patras, 305.—Quarantine, 305.—Voyage to Malta, 305.