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In: Travel Writing·History - Modern (1750+)
Public-domain ebook sourced from Project Gutenberg #76320.
Heinrich Barth’s fifth volume concludes a monumental five‑part record of a British‑sponsored expedition across North and Central Africa between 1849 and 1855. The work opens with a rapid‑fire catalogue of the year’s events, ranging from “Cheering Prospects” and “Unreasonable Dispute about a Point of Religious Controversy” to “Anomalous Rising of the River” and “Machinations of the Merchants from Morocco.” From there Barth moves into a diary‑like narration, detailing his precarious health, the barter of quicksilver with a local sheikh, and the everyday diet of milk, kuskus and millet. He interweaves observations on trade, political intrigue among tribal leaders, and vivid descriptions of market prices for salt, gold and gúro nuts. The opening establishes a blend of logistical record, personal reflection, and ethnographic note that frames the rest of the volume’s extensive travelogue.
Barth writes in a measured, scholarly voice tempered by the immediacy of a field journal. His prose is dense with specific place names, native terms and commercial data, yet it retains a clear narrative thread as he recounts negotiations, river crossings and encounters with chiefs. Readers who relish 19th‑century exploration literature, historical geography, or the anthropology of the Sahel will find his meticulous detail rewarding, while those preferring fast‑moving adventure fiction may find the pace deliberate.
The opening · free to read
My Informants. — Continued Disappointment. — Family Reason of Delay. — Leave again for the Tents. — Merits of the Prophets. — Books sent out to Central Africa. — Arrival of Sídi Mohammed. — Hammádi. — Family Concerns. — Another Arrival from Ghadámes. — Unlucky Fate of a Parcel. — The Waters subside. — Indications of a political Storm. — Arrival of another Officer from Hamda-Alláhi. — Protest of the Brothers. — A sleepless Night. — Interesting Episode. — The Kél-ulli.
CHAP. LXXII.
Great Crisis. — Obliged to leave the Town. — Military Demonstration 59
The Tábu or great Army of the Awelímmiden. — Who is a Moslim? — Celebration of the Sebúwa. — The Gwanín. — The Kél-hekíkan. — Political Crisis. — Hasty Proceedings. — Warlike Nightly Manœuvres. — March of the Tábu arrested. — Camp Inconveniences. — Political Meeting at the Ródha. — Consultation of the Brothers. — Policy of the Fúlbe. — Further Difficulties. — Life in the Camp. — The Gwanín again. — Turbulent State of the Country. — Presents. — Intrigues. — Native Estimate of Europeans. — General Political Relations.
CHAP. LXXIII.
Abortive Attempt at Departure from Timbúktu 94
Setting out from Bóse-bángo. — Tawárek Encampments. — Ammalélle. — Camp of the Kél-n-Nokúnder, at Ernésse. — Hospitality of the Kél-ulli. — Camp of the Tarabanása. — Relations of various Chiefs. — Taútilt and the Chief Wóghda. — The Welád Molúk. — The chivalrous Wóghdugu.
CHAP. LXXIV.
Retrograde Movement towards Timbúktu 111
The Rebel Chief Ákhbi. — Quarrel of the Igwádaren. — Return Westward. — Berber and Canaanitic Names. — Swamps and Rains. — A Camp in Motion. — Lady Travellers. — The Kinsman of Sául. — Exciting News. — Relations with the French. — Parting with Kungu. — The Camp at Ernésse again. — Downs of Úle-Tehárge. — A friendly Chat. — Return of Servants from Town. — News from Timbúktu.
CHAP. LXXV.
Final and real Start. — Creeks on the Northern Bank of the Niger. — Ghérgo. — Bamba 139
Real Start. — Leave Úle-Tehárge. — A welcome Parcel. — Gigantic Retem. — Females of the Welád Molúk. — Peaceable Tolba. — Wild Hog. — Zangway. — The Creeks. — Ém-n-kúris. — Tamizgída. — Ghérgo. — Hospitality of the Kél-antsár. — Crossing Creeks. — Approach to Bamba. — Scenery of the River. — The Rumá. — Smoking. — The Cocks of Bamba. — Sídi Mohammed’s Family. — Scarcity of Supplies.
CHAP. LXXVI.
The Desert. — Country along the Border of the River. — Greatest Narrowing. — South-easterly Bend 166
A Night March through Swamps. — Terárart, Northernmost Creek of the Niger. — “Tahónt-n-éggish.” — Various Personalities. — The Chief Sadáktu. — Hot Camping-ground. — A poisonous Spider. — Encampment of Sídi Ilemín. — Beginning of the Rocky District. — Tin-sherífen. — The Kél e’ Súk. — Tawárek Ladies. — The River at Tin-sherífen. — Rocks in the River. — Cry of the young Zangway.
CHAP. LXXVII.
Tósaye, or the Narrowing of the River. — Burrum; Ancient Relation to Egypt. — Great South-south-easterly Reach 188
Incident in African Warfare. — Island of Ádar-n-Háut. — Burrum. — Intercourse with Egypt. — Slow Progress. — Intercourse by Water between Gógó and Bamba. — River between steep Cliffs. — Morals of the Kél e’ Súk. — The Tin-ger-Égedesh. — Curiosity of the Women. — Mount Tóndibi. — Appearance of our Party. — Swampy District Abúba. — The Ibawájiten. — Great Breadth of the River. — First Sight of Gógó. — Appearance of Industry.
CHAP. LXXVIII.
The ancient Capital of Songhay, and its Neighbourhood 305
Gógó and Timbúktu. — General Description of Gógó. — Rich Vegetation. — The Mosque. — Meeting of Native Chiefs. — Khozématen and Hanna. — The Gá-béro. — Their Hospitality. — Encamp in Barno. — Hippopotami. — Return to Gógó. — Preparations to leave Gógó. — Arrival of the Chief Thákkefi. — His Proposal. — Survey of the River.
CHAP. LXXIX.
Separation from the Sheikh. — Cross the River to the South-western Side. — Various Encampments. — River studded with Islands. — Ansóngho 237
Separation from the Sheikh. — Bornu-gungu. — The Gá-bíbi. — Unsettled Districts. — Tóngi. — Barbarous Custom. — Ádar-andúrren. — Island Ansóngho. — Iron Gates of Akarámbay. — Rocky Character of River. — Burre. — Fúlbe Settlers. — Rapids. — Tiboráwen. — Wild Scenery. — The Ímelíggizen. — Island Kátubu. — A River Archipelago. — Wild River Scenery at Ém-n-íshib. — Parting with Mohammed the Kél e’ Súki.
CHAP. LXXX.
Difficulty of determining the Watercourses. — Granite Boulders. — Ayóru and its Cultivation. — Kendáji and its Chief. — A fertile District. — Camp of Erátafáni. — Doubtful Escort. — Rocky Nature of River-bed. — Sinder, the Corn Market. — State of Háusa. — Date-palms. — Mohammed Sáleh. — Rich Country. — Ázemay. — First Háusa Salute. — The Kortíta. — The River Sirba. — Wántila. — An alarming Adventure. — Cotton Plantations. — Bírni. — Island of Bé-gungu. — Margin and Cliffs of the River. — Arrival at Say.
CHAP. LXXXI.
Second Stay in Say. — Journey through Déndina and Kebbi 295
Audience with the Governor. — Market of Say. — Inundated State. — Leave Say. — Tanna. — Mínge. — Támkala and its reduced Condition. — Audience with Ábú el Hassan. — His Position. — A Háusa Nobleman. — Friendly Reception in Gárbo. — A Storm. — Town of Kallíyul. — Isolated Specimens of the Oil-palm. — Débe. — Pernicious Effect of Water. — Town of Tilli. — Sickness of Señi. — The swampy Gúlbi-n-Sókoto. — Birni-n-Kebbi. — Swampy Valleys. — Jéga. — Cheering Recognition. — Arrival at Gando.
CHAP. LXXXII.
Second Stay in Gando, Sókoto, and Wurno 327
Awkward Fate of a Letter. — Abundance of Rains. — Leaving Gando. — Variety of Vegetation. — Effect of Rains. — Arrival at Sókoto. — Unofficial News of Vogel’s Party. — Swollen Torrent of Sókoto. — Kind Reception at Wurno. — State of Insecurity. — Prices of Market. — Present from ʿAlíyu. — Sickness. — Sad Condition of Negroland. — Leave taking. — New Route. — Gulbi-n-Rába. — Long March to Gandi. — Another long March. — Moríki. — Dúchi. — Town of Kámmané. — Another unsafe Wilderness. — Take Leave of the Ghaladíma. — Arrival in Kanó.
CHAP. LXXXIII.
Second Residence in Kanó, under unfavourable Circumstances. — March to Kúkawa 358
Financial Difficulties. — Sickness of my Horses. — Want of Information. — Varying News from Kúkawa. — Disappointing News from Zínder. — Letter to ʿAlíyu. — Unprofitable Letters. — Forced Loans. — Final Arrangements. — Leaving Kanó. — Aspect of Country. — Kind Treatment at Gída-n-Alla. — The Thieves of Gírki. — Reduced State of Gúmmel. — Last Meeting with Mohammed e’ Sfáksi. — Departure from Gúmmel. — Máshena. — Meeting with Mr. Vogel. — Great Disappointment. — Zurríkulo. — “Búne Kayérda Sʿaíd.” — Dáway. — Kinjéberi. — Various Branches of the Komádugu.
CHAP. LXXXIV.
Last Residence in Kúkawa. — Benefit of European Society. — Unpleasant Circumstances 391
Arrangements with Mr. Vogel. — Departure of Mr. Vogel. — Attack of Rheumatism. — Abortive Plan of Departure from Kúkawa. — Reenter the Town. — Arrival of a Caravan. — News from Mr. Vogel.
CHAP. LXXXV.
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