Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

This is not a “Book on Japan,” but a narrative of travels in Japan, and an attempt to contribute something to the sum of knowledge of the present condition of the country, and it was not till I had travelled for some months in the interior of the main island and in Yezo that I decided that my materials were novel enough to render the contribution worth making. From Nikkô northwards my route was altogether off the beaten track, and had never been traversed in its entirety by any European. I lived among the Japanese, and saw their mode of living, in regions unaffected by European contact. As a lady travelling alone, and the first European lady who had been seen in several districts through which my route lay, my experiences differed more or less widely from those of preceding travellers; and I am able to offer a fuller account of the aborigines of Yezo, obtained by actual acquaintance with them, than has hitherto been given. These are my chief reasons for offering this volume to the public.

It was with some reluctance that I decided that it should consist mainly of letters written on the spot to my sister and a circle of personal friends, for this form of publication involves the sacrifice of artistic arrangement and literary treatment, and necessitates a certain amount of egotism; but, on the other hand, it places the reader in the position of the traveller, and makes him share the vicissitudes of travel, discomfort, difficulty, and tedium, as well as novelty and enjoyment. The “beaten tracks,” with the exception of Nikkô, have been dismissed in a few sentences, but where their features have undergone marked changes within a few years, as in the case of Tôkiyô (Yedo), they have been sketched more or less slightly. Many important subjects are necessarily passed over.

In Northern Japan, in the absence of all other sources of information, I had to learn everything from the people themselves, through an interpreter, and every fact had to be disinterred by careful labour from amidst a mass of rubbish. The Ainos supplied the information which is given concerning their customs, habits, and religion; but I had an opportunity of comparing my notes with some taken about the same time by Mr. Heinrich Von Siebold of the Austrian Legation, and of finding a most satisfactory agreement on all points.

Some of the Letters give a less pleasing picture of the condition of the peasantry than the one popularly presented, and it is possible that some readers may wish that it had been less realistically painted; but as the scenes are strictly representative, and I neither made them nor went in search of them, I offer them in the interests of truth, for they illustrate the nature of a large portion of the material with which the Japanese Government has to work in building up the New Civilisation.

Accuracy has been my first aim, but the sources of error are many, and it is from those who have studied Japan the most carefully, and are the best acquainted with its difficulties, that I shall receive the most kindly allowance if, in spite of carefulness, I have fallen into mistakes.

The Transactions of the English and German Asiatic Societies of Japan, and papers on special Japanese subjects, including “A Budget of Japanese Notes,” in the Japan Mail and Tôkiyô Times, gave me valuable help; and I gratefully acknowledge the assistance afforded me in many ways by Sir Harry S. Parkes, K.C.B., and Mr. Satow of H.B.M.’s Legation, Principal Dyer, Mr. Chamberlain of the Imperial Naval College, Mr. F. V. Dickins, and others, whose kindly interest in my work often encouraged me when I was disheartened by my lack of skill; but, in justice to these and other kind friends, I am anxious to claim and accept the fullest measure of personal responsibility for the opinions expressed, which, whether right or wrong, are wholly my own.

The illustrations, with the exception of three, which are by a Japanese artist, have been engraved from sketches of my own or Japanese photographs.

I am painfully conscious of the defects of this volume, but I venture to present it to the public in the hope that, in spite of its demerits, it may be accepted as an honest attempt to describe things as I saw them in Japan, on land journeys of more than 1400 miles.

Since the letters passed through the press, the beloved and only sister to whom, in the first instance, they were written, to whose able and careful criticism they owe much, and whose loving interest was the inspiration alike of my travels and of my narratives of them, has passed away.

ISABELLA L. BIRD.

CONTENTS.

LETTER I. First View of Japan—A Vision of Fujisan—Japanese Pages 1–7 _Sampans_—“Pullman Cars”—Undignified Locomotion—Paper Money—The Drawbacks of Japanese Travelling LETTER II. Sir Harry Parkes—An “Ambassador’s Carriage”—Cart 8–9 Coolies LETTER III. Yedo and Tôkiyô—The Yokohama Railroad—The Effect of 10–14 Misfits—The Plain of Yedo—Personal Peculiarities—First Impressions of Tôkiyô—H. B. M.’s Legation—An English Home LETTER IV. “John Chinaman”—Engaging a Servant—First Impressions 15–20 of Ito—A Solemn Contract—The Food Question LETTER V. Kwan-non Temple—Uniformity of Temple Architecture—A 21–31 Kuruma Expedition—A Perpetual Festival—The _Ni-ô_—The Limbo of Vanity—Heathen Prayers—Binzuru—A Group of Devils—Archery Galleries—New Japan—An Élégante LETTER VI. Fears—Travelling Equipments—Passports—Coolie Costume—A 32–42 Yedo Diorama—Rice—Fields—Tea-Houses—A Traveller’s Reception—The Inn at Kasukabé—Lack of Privacy—A Concourse of Noises—A Nocturnal Alarm—A Vision of Policemen—A Budget from Yedo LETTER VI.—(Continued.) A Coolie falls ill—Peasant Costume—Varieties in 43–50 Threshing—The Tochigi _Yadoya_—Farming Villages—A Beautiful Region—An In Memoriam Avenue—A Doll’s Street—Nikkô—The Journey’s End—Coolie Kindliness LETTER VII. A Japanese Idyll—Musical Stillness—My Rooms—Floral 51–53 Decorations—Kanaya and his Household—Table Equipments LETTER VIII The Beauties of Nikkô—The Burial of Iyéyasn—The 54–61 Approach to the Great Shrines—The Yomei Gate—Gorgeous Decorations—Simplicity of the Mausoleum—The Shrine of Iyémitsu—Religious Art of Japan and India—An Earthquake—Beauties of Wood-carving LETTER IX. A Japanese Pack-Horse and Pack-Saddle—_Yadoya_ and 62–65 Attendant—A Native Watering-Place—The Sulphur Baths—A “Squeeze” LETTER X. Peaceful Monotony—A Japanese School—A Dismal 66–72 Ditty—Punishment—A Children’s Party—A Juvenile Belle—Female Names—A Juvenile Drama—Needlework—Caligraphy—Arranging Flowers—Kanaya—Daily Routine—An Evening’s Entertainment—Planning Routes—The God-shelf LETTER X.—(Continued.) Darkness visible—Nikkô Shops—Girls and Matrons—Night 73–76 and Sleep—Parental Love—Childish Docility—Hair-dressing—Skin Diseases LETTER X.—(Completed.) Shops and Shopping—The Barber’s Shop—A Paper 77–79 Waterproof—Ito’s Vanity—Preparations for the Journey—Transport and Prices—Money and Measurements LETTER XI. Comfort disappears—Fine Scenery—An Alarm—A 80–91 Farm-house—An unusual Costume—Bridling a Horse—Female Dress and Ugliness—Babies—My _Mago_—Beauties of the Kinugawa—Fujihara—My Servant—Horse-shoes—An absurd Mistake LETTER XII. A Fantastic Jumble—The “Quiver” of Poverty—The 92–95 Water-shed—From Bad to Worse—The Rice Planter’s Holiday—A Diseased Crowd—Amateur Doctoring—Want of Cleanliness—Rapid Eating—Premature Old Age LETTER XII.—(Concluded.) A Japanese Ferry—A Corrugated Road—The Pass of 96–98 Sanno—Various Vegetation—An Unattractive Undergrowth—Preponderance of Men LETTER XIII. The Plain of Wakamatsu—Light Costume—The Takata 99–105 Crowd—A Congress of Schoolmasters—Timidity of a Crowd—Bad Roads—Vicious Horses—Mountain Scenery—A Picturesque Inn—Swallowing a Fish-bone—Poverty and Suicide—An Inn-kitchen—England Unknown!—My Breakfast Disappears LETTER XIV. An Infamous Road—Monotonous Greenery—Abysmal Dirt—Low 106–108 Lives—The Tsugawa _Yadoya_—Politeness—A Shipping Port—A “Barbarian Devil” LETTER XV. A Hurry—The Tsugawa Packet-boat—Running the 109–112 Rapids—Fantastic Scenery—The River-life—Vineyards—Drying Barley—Summer Silence—The Outskirts of Niigata—The Church Mission House LETTER XVI. Abominable Weather—Insect Pests—Absence of Foreign 114–119 Trade—A Refractory River—Progress—The Japanese City—Water Highways—Niigata Gardens—Ruth Fyson—The Winter Climate—A Population in Wadding LETTER XVII. The Canal-side at Niigata—Awful 120–127 Loneliness—Courtesy—Dr. Palm’s Tandem—A Noisy _Matsuri_—A Jolting Journey—The Mountain Villages—Winter Dismalness—An Out-of-the-world Hamlet—Crowded Dwellings—Riding a Cow—“Drunk and Disorderly”—An Enforced Rest—Local Discouragements—Heavy Loads—Absence of Beggary—Slow Travelling LETTER XVIII. Comely Kine—Japanese Criticism on a Foreign Usage—A 128–136 Pleasant Halt—Renewed Courtesies—The Plain of Yonezawa—A Curious Mistake—The Mother’s Memorial—Arrival at Komatsu—Stately Accommodation—A Vicious Horse—An Asiatic Arcadia—A Fashionable Watering-place—A Belle—“Godowns” LETTER XIX. Prosperity—Convict Labour—A New 137–142 Bridge—Yamagata—Intoxicating Forgeries—The Government Buildings—Bad Manners—Snow Mountains—A Wretched Town LETTER XX. The Effect of a Chicken—Poor Fare—Slow 143–145 Travelling—Objects of Interest—_Kak’ké_—The Fatal Close—A Great Fire—Security of the Kuras LETTER XX.—(Continued.) Lunch in Public—A Grotesque Accident—Police 146–151 Inquiries—Man or Woman?—A Melancholy Stare—A Vicious Horse—An Ill-favoured Town—A Disappointment—A Torii LETTER XX.—(Concluded.) A Casual Invitation—A Ludicrous Incident—Politeness of 152–154 a Policeman—A Comfortless Sunday—An Outrageous Irruption—A Privileged Stare LETTER XXI. The Necessity of Firmness—Perplexing 155–158 Misrepresentations—Gliding with the Stream—Suburban Residences—The Kubota Hospital—A Formal Reception—The Normal School LETTER XXII. A Silk Factory—Employment for Women—A Police 159–160 Escort—The Japanese Police Force LETTER XXIII. “A Plague of Immoderate Rain”—A Confidential 161–164 Servant—Ito’s Diary—Ito’s Excellences—Ito’s Faults—A Prophecy of the Future of Japan—Curious Queries—Superfine English—Economical Travelling—The Japanese Pack-horse again LETTER XXIV. The Symbolism of Seaweed—Afternoon Visitors—An Infant 165–169 Prodigy—A Feat in Caligraphy—Child Worship—A Borrowed Dress—A _Trousseau_—House Furniture—The Marriage Ceremony LETTER XXV. A Holiday Scene—A _Matsuri_—Attractions of the 170–174 Revel—_Matsuri_ Cars—Gods and Demons—A Possible Harbour—A Village Forge—Prosperity of Saké Brewers—A “Great Sight” LETTER XXVI. The Fatigues of Travelling—Torrents and Mud—Ito’s 175–182 Surliness—The Blind Shampooers—A Supposed Monkey Theatre—A Suspended Ferry—A Difficult Transit—Perils on the Yonetsurugawa—A Boatman Drowned—Nocturnal Disturbances—A Noisy _Yadoya_—Storm-bound Travellers—_Hai_! Hai!—More Nocturnal Disturbances LETTER XXVII. Good-tempered Intoxication—The Effect of Sunshine—A 183–186 tedious Altercation—Evening Occupations—Noisy Talk—Social Gatherings—Unfair Comparisons LETTER XXVIII. Torrents of Rain—An unpleasant Detention—Devastations 187–192 produced by Floods—The Yadate Pass—The Force of Water—Difficulties thicken—A Primitive _Yadoya_—The Water rises LETTER XXVIII.—(Continued.) Scanty Resources—Japanese Children—Children’s Games—A 193–196 Sagacious Example—A Kite Competition—Personal Privations LETTER XXIX. Hope deferred—Effects of the Flood—Activity of the 197–199 Police—A Ramble in Disguise—The Tanabata Festival—Mr. Satow’s Reputation LETTER XXX. A Lady’s Toilet—Hair-dressing—Paint and 200–202 Cosmetics—Afternoon Visitors—Christian Converts LETTER XXXI. A Travel Curiosity—Rude Dwellings—Primitive 203–205 Simplicity—The Public Bath-house LETTER XXXII. A Hard Day’s Journey—An Overturn—Nearing the 206–209 Ocean—Joyful Excitement—Universal Greyness—Inopportune Policemen—A Stormy Voyage—A Wild Welcome—A Windy Landing—The Journey’s End LETTER XXXIII. Form and Colour—A Windy Capital—Eccentricities in 212–213 House Roof LETTER XXXIV. Ito’s Delinquency—“Missionary Manners”—A Predicted 214–215 Failure LETTER XXXV. A Lovely Sunset—An Official Letter—A “Front 216–230 Horse”—Japanese Courtesy—The Steam Ferry—Coolies Abscond—A Team of Savages—A Drove of Horses—Floral Beauties—An Unbeaten Track—A Ghostly Dwelling—Solitude and Eeriness LETTER XXXV.—(Continued.) The Harmonies of Nature—A Good Horse—A Single 231–233 Discord—A Forest—Aino Ferrymen—“_Les Puces_! Les Puces!”—Baffled Explorers—Ito’s Contempt for Ainos—An Aino Introduction LETTER XXXVI. Savage Life—A Forest Track—Cleanly Villages—A 234–243 Hospitable Reception—The Chief’s Mother—The Evening Meal—A Savage _Séance_—Libations to the Gods—Nocturnal Silence—Aino Courtesy—The Chief’s Wife LETTER XXXVI.—(Continued.) A Supposed Act of Worship—Parental Tenderness—Morning 244–253 Visits.—Wretched Cultivation—Honesty and Generosity—A “Dug-out”—Female Occupations—The Ancient Fate—A New Arrival—A Perilous Prescription—The Shrine of Yoshitsuné—The Chief’s Return LETTER XXXVII. Barrenness of Savage Life—Irreclaimable Savages—The 254–261 Aino Physique—Female Comeliness—Torture and Ornament—Child Life—Docility and Obedience LETTER XXXVII.—(Continued.) Aino Clothing—Holiday Dress—Domestic 262–272 Architecture—Household Gods—Japanese Curios—The Necessaries of Life—Clay Soup—Arrow Poison—Arrow Traps—Female Occupations—Bark Cloth—The Art of Weaving LETTER XXXVII.—(Continued.) A Simple Nature-Worship—Aino Gods—A Festival 273–284 Song—Religious Intoxication—Bear-Worship—The Annual Saturnalia—The Future State—Marriage and Divorce—Musical Instruments—Etiquette—The Chieftainship—Death and Burial—Old Age—Moral Qualities LETTER XXXVIII. A Parting Gift—A Delicacy—Generosity—A Seaside 285–288 Village—Pipichari’s Advice—A Drunken Revel—Ito’s Prophecies—The Kôckô’s Illness—Patent Medicines LETTER XXXIX. A Welcome Gift—Recent Changes—Volcanic 289–295 Phenomena—Interesting Tufa Cones—Semi-strangulation—A Fall into a Bear-trap—The Shiraôi Ainos—Horsebreaking and Cruelty LETTER XXXIX.—(Continued.) The Universal Language—The Yezo _Corrals_—A “Typhoon 296–298 Rain”—Difficult Tracks—An Unenviable Ride—Drying Clothes—A Woman’s Remorse LETTER XL. “More than Peace”—Geographical 299–305 Difficulties—Usu-taki—Swimming the Osharu—A Dream of Beauty—A Sunset Effect—A Nocturnal Alarm—The Coast Ainos LETTER XL.—(Continued.) The Sea-shore—A “Hairy Aino”—A Horse Fight—The Horses 306–311 of Yezo—“Bad Mountains”—A Slight Accident—Magnificent Scenery—A Bleached Halting-Place—A Musty Room—Aino “Good-breeding” LETTER XLI. A Group of Fathers—The Lebungé Ainos—The _Salisburia 312–319 adiantifolia_—A Family Group—The Missing Link—Oshamambé—Disorderly Horses—The River Yurapu—The Seaside—Aino Canoes—The Last Morning—Dodging Europeans LETTER XLII. Pleasant Last Impressions—The Japanese Junk—Ito 320–321 Disappears—My Letter of Thanks LETTER XLIII. Pleasant Prospects—A Miserable Disappointment—Caught 322–324 in a Typhoon—A Dense Fog—Alarmist Rumours—A Welcome at Tôkiyô—The Last of the Mutineers LETTER XLIV. Fine Weather—Cremation in Japan—The Governor of 325–328 Tôkiyô—An Awkward Question—An Insignificant Building—Economy in Funeral Expenses—Simplicity of the Cremation Process—The Last of Japan